The Costa Brava, by a Local: A Slow-Living Guide to Spain’s Quietly Chic East Coast
Words by Emma
When I first arrived at the Costa Brava, I thought I was coming for the beaches. What I didn’t expect was to fall in love with the rhythm of life here; the morning swims before the world wakes up, the tiny family-run restaurants hidden down stone alleyways, the scent of pine trees mixed with sea air and the sleepy villages frozen in time.
This guide isn’t written by someone who visited for a weekend. It’s written by someone who calls this coastline home. Here’s how to make the most of your time in the Costa Brava…
Credit: @emma_kemsley
Where is the Costa Brava
Usually overlooked by the cosmopolitan call of Barcelona, the Costa Brava is a stretch of rugged cliffs, sandy coves and shimmering waters, located between Blanes, northeast of Barcelona, stretching to the French border.
It’s divided into three regions; La Selva, known for the livelier towns of Blanes, Lloret de Mar, and Tossa de Mar. Alt Empordà; the northern region known for white-washed town of Cadaques, Salvador Dalí’s house, Roses and Cap de Creus Natural Park. Baix Emporda, my personal favourite and home, is the central point. Home to tiny calas, crystal clear waters and medieval villages. Here’s how to best experience the Baix Emporda:
What to visit
Beaches
The Costa Brava is a firm favourite for beach lovers. The wild cliffs, white sandy coves and clear waters are perfect for paddleboarding, snorkeling and simply watching the world go by. Keen hikers will adore the Cami de Ronda, a walking path winding along the rugged coast, linking beaches and providing epic views. Have your camera ready!
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Aigua Blava
For a beach that rivals the Caribbean, visit Aigua Blava. The tiny powder sand beach features clear waters perfect for swimming, paddleboarding and despite its small size is home to two restaurants, including the well-known Toc al Mar, famed for its fresh seafood dishes.
Top tip: Parking is limited and the beach is remote. Arrive before 8am peak summer to secure a car space.
Sa Tuna
Imagine a perfect postcard scene; a tiny fisherman cove lined with colourful cottages and boats bobbing up and down. It’s a tiny gravel beach with a good choice of restaurants.
Calella de Palafrugell
It’s white arches with views to the sea are an icon of the Costa Brava. Here you’ll find four small bays, backed by a promenade of restaurants serving Catalan classics.
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Villages
Pals
A honey hued medieval village perched on a hill overlooking the rice fields. It’s the perfect place to wander, stop for coffee, learn more about the history of the area and browse the small boutiques. Venture out of town to the coast and you’ll be greeted with a wide, wild beach and dunes. There’s a couple of xironguitos too.
Top tip: The village is a great place for watching the sunset, while the beach is ideal for sunrise.
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Peratallada
A cobbled town with winding, narrow streets draped in bougainvillea. It’s a tiny village surrounded by ancient defensive walls, offering traditional restaurants and vermouth bars.
Top tip: Time your visit for an aperitivo
What to do
Boat Hire
The best way to see the Costa Brava is by boat. Hop cala to cala and swim in clear waters discovering the secret coves and marine life. Rental is available from most small beaches, either self-drive or hire a skipper.
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Wine tours
There’s no shortage of the wineries in the Costa Brava. You’ll find plenty of local inspiration on restaurant wine lists, but to learn more book a tour and tasting at the likes of Mas Oller.
Markets
A holiday isn’t complete without wandering a market and picking up fresh produce for a beach picnic or poolside dinner. You’ll find a local produce market at Palafrugell from Tuesday to Sunday. A weekly market with fashion, accessories and produce winds around the streets and Plaça in Begur, every Wednesday.
Where to eat
Margarita, Calella de Palafrugell
A cute, chic restaurant where the interiors are just as good as the dishes. Here food is made to be shared. The tasty menu, full of mediterranean flavour and colours, are perfect for a post-beach lunch or sunset dinner. It’s a tiny restaurant so advance reservation is recommended.
Top tip: a personal favourite order is the lemon sage pasta, lobster roll and flam de dolc de llet for dessert.
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Soca-Rel, Llofrui
A stunning restaurant drapped in olive branches with views of the farmer fields. Half located in an old building with vaulted ceilings, half garden vibes, traditional Emporda dishes are cooked on an open fire.
Top tip: Call to make a reservation.
Hostal Sa Tuna Restaurant
Overlooking the turquoise waters of Sa Tuna, the restaurant serves up some of the best seafood and rice dishes in the area. It’s a buzzy but laid-back atmosphere, perfect for a long lunch on a hot summer’s day.
Top tip: Order the black rice with Palamos prawns; a local delicacy.
Where to stay
Lodhi Homes
If you’re looking for a stylish Mediterranean getaway that encompasses the slow living dream, check out Lohodi Homes. A collection of country and coastal homes, beautifully designed for the perfect relaxing holiday. Think creamy neutral interiors, terracotta tiles, stone walls, and gardens draped in vines, dappled shade and perfect plunge pools.
Top tip: follow and DM @emma_kemsley for a discount code
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Alta House Hotel
This hidden boutique hotel in the town of Begur is perfectly located for exploring the best of the region. A central location, but quiet, it features a beautiful pool and gardens. Enjoy an aperitivo on the roof top bar with spectacular castle views.
Useful info for planning your trip
Fly to Girona–Costa Brava Airport (GRO) (not Barcelona)
This airport is located closer to the Costa Brava and features regular flights from UK airports throughout the summer. Winter flights from London Stansted are available.
Hire a car
This is by far the best way to experience the Costa Brava. It will allow the freedom to hop between beaches and villages.
Plan ahead
Prepare for the summer season to be extremely busy. It’s advised to book popular restaurants 4-6 weeks in advance.
Full itinerary experience
For a fully planned holiday itinerary to the Costa Brava with insider tips, secret locations, the best local events and personal recommendations, get in touch with Emma @emma_kemsley. Prices start from £175.
Emma Kemsley is a writer and content creator sharing everyday life, interiors and style in the Mediterranean. Follow her at @emma_kemsley.
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